In Moldova, where I come from, you will hardly find a cookery book. It is customary to share recipes with your friends and family, and mothers will usually transfer their knowledge and skills to children. So, when I make Borsch, I never really follow a specific recipe, never weigh any ingredient, measure it by eye, that is why it is a bit tricky to put it in writing.

It has long been the custom in Northern Europe to eat peppery or bitter-tasting leaves at the advent of Spring, following the belief of the ancient Romans that such food purifies the blood. Vivid green local watercress is particularly welcome at this time of year especially when combined with the flesh of a ripe dessert pear either in a salad strewn with hot buttered walnuts or in this soothing soup.